Vienna in Advent: Christmas markets and winter in the city

The big backdrops: Rathausplatz, Schönbrunn, Belvedere

The Wiener Christkindlmarkt on Rathausplatz is the city’s best-known market, and it is busy accordingly. Stalls fill the square in front of the illuminated City Hall; the adjoining Rathauspark has an ice rink and the Herzerlbaum, a tree hung with glowing hearts. Take the U2 to Rathaus, or tram 1, 71 or D.

The Christmas market at Schönbrunn Palace is set in the Ehrenhof, the forecourt directly in front of the palace. It leans towards handicrafts and has a programme for children, and it is one of the few markets that stay open beyond New Year. The U4 stops at Schönbrunn.

There is also a market at the Upper Belvedere, against a Baroque façade. It was recently reorganised and now runs under the name K&K Weihnachtsmarkt. Tram D stops at Schloss Belvedere.

Crafts and narrow lanes: Spittelberg, Karlsplatz, Am Hof

The Spittelberg Christmas market threads through the narrow Biedermeier lanes of the 7th district, Spittelberggasse, Schrankgasse and Gutenberggasse among them. Instead of one large square you walk from stall to stall between old house fronts, and much of what is sold is handmade. The nearest station is Volkstheater (U2, U3).

Art Advent on Karlsplatz, in front of the Karlskirche, is the market for art and craft: a jury decides who may exhibit, the food stalls are certified organic, and there is a separate programme for children. Karlsplatz is an interchange for the U1, U2 and U4.

In the old town two markets sit almost side by side: the Am Hof Christmas market, with handicrafts, and the Altwiener Christkindlmarkt on the Freyung, whose tradition goes back to 1772 according to the Vienna Tourist Board. Herrengasse (U3) is the handy station for both. If you get out at Stephansplatz you will find stalls there too, right beside the cathedral.

What do you eat and drink at a Christmas market?

The standard drinks are Glühwein and Punsch. Glühwein is mulled wine, red or white; Punsch is sweeter and, depending on the stall, mixed from tea, fruit juice, spices and spirits. The alcohol-free version is sold as Kinderpunsch.

Drinks come in a Häferl, a ceramic mug on which you pay a deposit. Each market has its own design. Hand the mug back and the deposit is returned; keep it and you have a souvenir.

To eat, look for Maroni (roasted chestnuts), roasted almonds, Lebkuchen (gingerbread), potato pancakes and Langos, a disc of fried dough. For the city’s year-round markets, see the article on Viktor-Adler-Markt, Naschmarkt and others.

Winter in Vienna beyond the markets

Ice skating is part of a Viennese winter. The rink in the Rathauspark runs alongside the Christkindlmarkt; after the turn of the year the larger Wiener Eistraum takes over Rathausplatz itself. The Wiener Eislaufverein on Lothringerstraße is another place to skate.

To warm up, there is Therme Wien, the thermal baths at Oberlaa in the 10th district, at the southern terminus of the U1. Cold days also leave the museums and the coffee houses, where lingering over a single cup is accepted custom. For clear winter days, see Vienna from above.

How do you plan around the crowds?

Rathausplatz is the busiest. Wiener Linien has in the past run its trams through the Rathausplatz/Burgtheater stop without stopping on Friday and Saturday afternoons and evenings. A weekday, early in the day, is the better choice there. Smaller markets such as the one on Stephansplatz are easier to take in.

Use public transport. Parking near the markets is scarce, and every location named here is on the U-Bahn or a tram line.

The markets do not all open and close together. The first start early in November, many close just before Christmas Eve, and a few carry on after the holidays. Check the current season’s dates and opening hours once before you travel; the City of Vienna and the Vienna Tourist Board each publish an overview.

To the markets on the U1

The U1 links several of these places without a change. From Keplerplatz station in Favoriten it is three stops to Karlsplatz for Art Advent and four to Stephansplatz. At Karlsplatz you change to the U4 for Schönbrunn, or to the U2 for Volkstheater (Spittelberg) and Rathaus.

Keplerplatz is also where Domenig House stands, in the Favoritenstraße pedestrian zone. In Advent the pedestrian zone has a small Advent market of its own. Lines and routes are covered in Getting around Vienna.